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“One a wonder of nature, the other of art”
Introduction to the Peak District
The Peak District National Park is one of our favourite UK national parks and we often find ourselves yearning to return to it and when we do, we fall in love all over again, discovering new favourites. Recently named one of the best National Parks in Europe, the park was chosen through the Travellers' Choice Awards for 2021 by Trip Advisor and gained the title of the second best National Park in the UK after the Yorkshire Dales.
An iconic English landscape, inspiring literary writers Jane Austen and Charlotte Bronte and featured for filming locations including Pride and Prejudice. It’s easy to see why the Peaks continue to inspire artists and is one of the most popular parks in the UK, welcoming over 13 million visitors each year. Jane Austen is believed to have written some of Pride and Prejudice in Bakewell which she names ‘Lambton’ in the novel. Charlotte Bronte was writing Jane Eyre as she stayed with a close friend in the vicarage in Heathersage.
Where is Peak District National Park?
Located in the heart of England, covering most of Derbyshire and also the counties of Cheshire, Staffordshire, Yorkshire and Greater Manchester. The Peak District covers an area of 1,437 km² with over 20 million people living within an hour of it. Manchester and Sheffield are large neighbouring cities connected by two motorways running parallel to the park and a network of A roads which makes it one of the most accessible parks. The Peak District National Park is a living landscape where over 34,000 people live within it.
Why was the Peak District National Park set up?
In the early 1800’s the industrial revolution led to the building of large factories in the cities with poor working conditions. Factory workers had a growing appreciation for nature and the outdoors with access to clean air and recreation as a stark contrast to their working environment. A growing movement commenced with the right to roam movement which fought for the right of all people to have access to the countryside. Industrial neighbouring towns of the north, Manchester known for cotton goods and Sheffield with its successful steel production had many workers who found rest bite in the Peak District. John Pendleton described Sheffield as ‘a black diamond set in emeralds - a sooty Vulcan or Cyclops slaving on the borders of paradise’. It brought them, ‘new breath, new life, new hope.’
Conflict between landowners and ramblers grew, resulting in public pressure for access for all to the countryside. On the 24th April 1932, ramblers assembled at Bowden Bridge quarry and set off on foot on a mass trespass to Kinder Scout plateau. Approximately 400 men and women gathered from the neighbouring towns of Sheffield and Manchester on the plateau in protest led by 20 year old Benny Rothman. Five trespassers were arrested including Benny and he recounted the events during his trial,
"There were hundreds of young men and women, lads and girls, in their picturesque rambling gear: shorts of every length and colour, flannels and breeches, even overalls, vivid colours and drab khaki…multi-coloured sweaters and pullovers, army packs and rucksacks of every size and shape."
- Benny Rothman
A voluntary group was formed to put pressure on the government to create the National Park we know today. This public pressure led to the White Paper written in 1945 on National Parks. The Government passed an Act in 1949 to establish National Parks which would preserve and enhance their natural beauty and provide recreational opportunities to the public. In 1951, the Peak District National Park was set up as the first of Britain’s fifteen National Parks.
The importance of outdoor space and nature has once again come to the forefront recently as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic lockdowns where many found solace in green spaces. Pressure on our National Parks providing this essential connection with nature was in high demand, the Peak District saw visitor numbers double after lockdown. The Peak District stands as a beacon for the National Parks with this history which we perhaps take for granted today and have grown a new or renewed appreciation for them during the pandemic. Access to nature and open space is a human right for all and provides benefits to mental and physical health which should be protected for future generations.
"We ramblers, after a hard week’s work, in smoky towns and cities, go out rambling for relaxation and fresh air. And we find the finest rambling country is closed to us… our request, or demand, for access to all peaks and uncultivated moorland is nothing unreasonable."
- Benny Rothman, speaking in his defence at the trial at Derby Assizes.
What is Peak District National Park known for?
The park offers incredible walking trails including Britain’s oldest long-distance national walking trail the Pennine Way which begins in Edale, a small village in the Peak District and stretches 268 miles all the way to Scotland. The highest point is Kinder Scout at 636m (2,086ft). A range of outdoor activities are on offer including caving, mountain biking, paddle boarding, climbing, horse riding, windsurfing and paragliding.
Millstones are known as the emblem of the Peak District and you will find many scattered amongst the hills. To see the remains of old millstones abandoned make a visit Heathersage village. These millstones are made from Peak District gritstone and were used for grinding corn, sharpening tools and crushing lead ore.
There are many ecological and geological features in the park; heather moorland covers a large proportion of the park supporting important and rare wildlife. Limestone karst features such as deep caverns like Blue John Cavern known for stalagmites and stalactites and gorges like Winnats Pass are found across the landscape. The limestone provided a bed of minerals including lead which was mined since the Roman times and used for piping, ammunition and batteries. The lead for white paint in Vermeer’s painting of Girl with a Pearl Earring came from the Peak District.
How to get to the Peak District?
There are many public transport links that allow you to access and get around the park. If travelling by train there are lines from Manchester, Derby, Sheffield with direct access to Grindleford, Hathersage, Bamford, Hope and Edale. There are many bus lines that run through the park and you can get on the TransPeak bus service which runs from Buxton and Derby into the heart of the Peak District and more information can be found here.
There are two nearby international airports, East Midlands Airport and Manchester Airport with regular train and bus services. If you plan to enter the park by bike there are traffic-free routes you can take which includes; the Tissington trail, High Peak trail (Ashbourne and Cromford towards Buxton), The Monsal trail (Bakewell towards Buxton), Manifold Valley trail (Waterhouses to Hulme End).
If travelling by car, you will find the M1 and M6 provide easy access to the National Park and there are electrical charging points across the park and in Derbyshire. Please park in car parks and do not block any farm gates or access points to keep the roads clear and safe for emergency vehicles and farm vehicles.
What are the best things to see and do in the Peaks?
The Peak District is divided into two regions, the Dark Peak and White Peak which is a reference to the geology of each region. The Dark Peak moorland landscape is found to the north, dominated by gritstone and covered in precious peat bogs which store over 40 million tonnes of carbon. To the south is the pristine grassland named White Peak, resting on top of a limestone plateau which make it a haven for wild flowers. This guide will be divided into things to see in each of these areas.
White Peak
Winnats Pass
The hill pass is thought to have been formed by an underwater river system which wore away the rock creating cracks and formed the incredibly steep limestone cliffs that surround the pass and an intricate cave system. There is a road that cuts through the pass and is one of the most spectacular drives and perhaps also scary due to the steep incline, which many cyclists attempt to climb.
Winnats Pass is covered in old mine shafts, where unfortunately a couple who eloped to Peak Forest Chapel in 1758 were robbed and murdered by local miners and disposed of in a mine shaft, only to be discovered a decade later. Visit Speedwell cavern to observe the relics of the lead mining industry that was busy in Castleton, the nearest town and ride the flooded mineshafts by boat. Blue John is a rare mineral with bands of purple/blue and yellow is only found in the limestone mines in Castleton.
Winnats Pass is a great location to capture a cloud inversion on a late autumn day. This occurs when high pressure remains in the valley for an extended period of time. This allows clouds to settle in the valley giving you the feeling of being above clouds! You will be treated to views over the Hope Valley and you will see the prominent cement works tower in the distance.
Where to park: You can park at the top of the pass, if you are driving toward the pass from Sparrowpit, turn left before entering the pass and there are several places in a lay by. There is more parking once you head down the pass towards Castleton at Speedwell Cavern.
Dovedale
An incredible limestone valley, Dovedale gives you the opportunity to skip over stepping stones across the River Dove and climb up Thorpe Cloud which is set up at 287metres for stunning views across the valley. Ash woodland, wildflowers, grassland and river wildlife are found in abundance within Dovedale. This can be a very popular spot during summer and weekends.
Where to park: National trust own most of the land in this valley and provide two car parks which provide access to the area. Dovedale and Ilam Park only accept cash for the car parks and if you are national trust member you can park for free. £3.50 for up to 4 hours and £5 for all day. There are public toilets available at Ilam Park which are open from 10am till 5pm.
Robin Hood’s Stride
Perhaps less popular than Stanage Edge due to the limited parking, the legend behind Robin Hood’s Stride is fascinating and is surrounded by historic artefacts including the nine stones circle. The legend of Robin Hood’s Stride is that Robin strode across the two prominent rocks at the top of the gritstone tor. The Nine Stones circle are remnants from the Bronze Age and legend has is that the stones transform into dancing women at midnight and midday. There are fantastic views from the top of the rocks and is a popular place for rock climbing. The Cratcliffe Tor which is hidden by trees and is nearby which you can walk to in a few minutes.
Where to park: Lay-by on the B5056 which was full when we visited which allows you to walk up to Cratcliff Tor. We parked along Cliff Lane which is a single track road you can get to by going through Elton Village there a public footpath on the right (if you approached Cliff Lane from Elton) which will take you near the stone circle and to Robin Hood’s Stride.
The Roaches
A rugged, gritty outcrop which is covered in mystery and folklore. As the clouds catch the top of the Roaches, it forms a magical and mysterious landscape. There are plenty of walking routes which you can take to visit some of the nearby attractions such as Lud’s Church a deep moss-covered chasm that cuts through the gritstone. You will be treated to spectacular views onto Hen Cloud across to Snowdon on a clear day. The Roaches is home to a number of wildlife including peregrine falcons who nest on the craggy edges.
Where to park: Lay by parking along Roach Road
Parkhouse & Chrome Hill
One of the most iconic shaped peaks which legend says is a grass covered dragon that has been sleeping for millions of years. These limestones peaks are protected by a designation of Site of Special Scientific Interest as there are rare species of plants found on the hillside.
You cannot park right up outside the hill and you will have to walk towards the hills from Earl of Sterndale is the best place to start your walk. A brief description below of the walk we took may help you on your adventure towards the sleeping dragon.
Make sure you wear appropriate, sturdy boots as the climb is steep in places and can be quite boggy. You can begin the walk to Parkhouse and Chrome Hill at the Quiet Woman pub in the Earl of Sterndale, where the path goes behind the pub through the fields. Walk along the Dragons Back and try not to wake the sleeping creature. You will then reach the B5053 which you will need to cross over and continue up the hill you will see straight ahead of you called Hitter Hill. Carry along the ridge and you will be on Parkhouse Hill with wonderful panoramic views across rolling hills of green. You will eventually reach an extremely steep decline off Parkhouse Hill and continue down to the right where you will reach a country road you will cross over and continue along the road till you cross over a cattle grid and you’ll find the path on your left. This path leads you to Chrome Hill and you can look back onto Parkhouse Hill a bit further up the hill. Once you pass through the gate under a large tree you will get fantastic views looking back onto Parkhouse Hill. Retrace your steps back down the hill and you can follow the road to the right and back to the Earl of Sterndale. If you would like to continue your walk further then carry on up Chrome Hill and head back through Hollinsclough village and on back to the Earl of Sterndale. Make sure you wear appropriate, sturdy boots as the climb is steep in places and can be quite boggy.
Where to park: There is no parking immediately next to Parkhouse & Chrome Hills. Park along the road opposite Quiet Woman pub in the Earl of Sterndale.
Dark Peak
Snake Pass
This mountain pass is full of twists, turns and steep sections and has been named one of the best drives in the UK. At certain times of the year it can become impassable due to dangerous weather conditions such as snow and ice, as there are steep parts of the road which can become slippery. The pass starts in Glossop and crosses the Pennine Way to the highest point at 510m above sea level. It is also considered one of the most dangerous roads with blind summits and sharp bends.
One of our favourite walks we would recommend is in the beautiful Snake Woodland, located along this mountain pass. This is an easy walk through the woodlands with pine trees lining the River Ashop. The woodland is a very calm space and the smell of pine is enough to give you an instant sense of relaxation. Bring a picnic with you and observe the wildlife calling this place home. Kinder Scout, the highest peak in the national park is nearby and you can walk from the Snake Pass Inn which will take you around 4-5 hours.
Where to park: Free parking is before the Snake Pass Inn at Hope Woodland Car park, if you park here then carefully cross the road and you will find Snake Woodland. There is also free parking in a small lay-by next to the Snake Pass Inn.
Stanage Edge
The gritstone edges dominate the Dark Peak moorlands, situated north east of the village of Hathersage is the impressive Stanage Edge. Popular amongst walkers and rock climbers this edge is one of the longest gritstone edges, stretching for around 6km (3.5 miles). It is also one of the most accessible with a short walk to the top of the edge and generous parking nearby. This iconic landscape was featured in a recent film adaption of Pride and Prejudice starring Keira Knightly as she gazed across the dramatic Dark Peak landscape.
As you explore the rock formations, you may stumble across Robins Hood cave which features incredible views from its balcony edge. You’ll find millstones scattered nearby which are a symbol of the Peak District and a reminder of its past.
Parking: Hollins Bank & Picnic area which also has public toilets. Hook’s Car Park and Dennis Knoll.
Howden, Derwent and Ladybower Reservoirs
Howden Reservoir, Derwent Reservoir and Ladybower Reservoir are all located within the Upper Derwent Valley, a scenic and peaceful setting for a gentle walk or bike ride around the reservoir edge. You can hire a bikes from Derwent bike hire which is found next to the Upper Derwent visitor centre. During the construction of Ladybower Reservoir, two villages were submerged beneath the water. Villagers were rehoused to the nearby village of Bamford. Parts of the remaining buildings including some farms are visible at low water levels. There are two prominent plug holes in the reservoir which generates hydroelectricity.
Derwent and Howden Reservoir were used during the second world war for planes to practice bombing missions for German raids to destroy their dams. The squadron named ‘The Dambusters’ would deploy dummy bombs onto the reservoir which would bounce and then sink to a certain depth which would ensure the destruction of the German dams.
Where to park: Fairholmes Visitor Centre Car Park Centre, Derwent Overlook Car Park (free), Bridge End Car Park which are located on the road off the A57 before crossing Derwent Reservoir towards Ladybower Inn. This area is signposted as ‘Derwent Valley Dams’. There is also parking on the side of the road along the A57 and at Heatherdene Car Park off the A6013.
B29 ‘OVEREXPOSED’ Crash Site
A US Airforce Bomber Plane named ‘Overexposed’ crashed on 3rd November 1948, near the Higher Shelf Stones on the hills of Bleaklow, approximately 2km north of Snake Road. 13 crew members were on board and died instantly. The cause of the crash is believed to be that the crew thought they had passed Bleaklow which was a result of poor visibility. The wreckage rests on the moorlands today and is well preserved considering the bleak and harsh conditions common to these hills. The Bomber Plane had been modified for photographic purposes and had assisted in filming the atomic bomb tested in the Bikini Atoll in the Pacific in 1946.
Engines, gun turrets and wings are still visible at the crash site along with an official memorial. To visit the crash site, you will need sturdy footwear to withstand the boggy peat moorland and with the combination of difficult weather conditions this can make it a challenge to navigate the remote hills of Bleaklow. You will start by following the Pennine Way north and is marked for the most of the route to Bleaklow. Then head to Higher Shelf Stones where you will find a trig point can navigate to the crash site which is a couple of hundred metres from there stones. The hike in total will take around 3 hours depending on weather conditions and being able to navigate to find the site. We have included grid reference below of the crash site which should help you find the site and it is visible from satellite imagery.
Grid reference: SK 09075 94869
Latitude and Longitude: 53°27’01.8"N 1°51’53.3”W.
What 3 Words: muddle.topped.repayment
Parking: Free Lay by parking on Snake Pass, this is where the Penine Way crosses the A57 Snake Pass. What3Words: outwit.unpacked.dragonfly
Alport Castles
Known as possibly the largest landslide in the UK, at half a mile long landslip named Alport Castles is surrounded by remote wilderness and towering gritstone pinnacles. The main gritstone tower is named ‘The Tower’, as from a distance it looks like a castle tower and is prominent feature in the valley. Alport Mere tarn is located beneath ‘The Tower’ and one of the few mountain tarns in the Peak District. This area was one of the few valleys in this region which was not made into a reservoir and allows you to experience the landscape as it has been for hundreds of years.
Where to park: You can either park in a lay by which is a 10 minute walk from the track you that follows the River Ashop north. Information for lay-by location What3Words: manliness.brimmed.unzipped, Grid reference: SK 12997 89500. Location for start of footpath. What3Words: trek.limo.pheasants, Grid reference: SK 13790 89549. For a longer walk you can park at the Derwent Overlook Car Park (free), Fairholmes Visitor Centre Car Park Centre and there are more parking spaces at this location compared to the lay-by on Snake Road.
The Peak District is guaranteed to satisfy your thirst for adventure and whether it be a day, weekend or longer trip we hope this guide helps you make the most of your time in this incredible national park. Make sure to add it to your list of places to visit in the UK if you haven’t considered it and if you have already visited the park then now is the time to go and give yourself a chance to discover a new favourite spot in the Peak District. Please let us know your favourite places in the comments as we’d love to hear them and explore the next time we visit!
