Exploring North Sardinia | A Travel Guide of Authentic Experiences and Hidden Gems
Sardinia is a sensational island, floating in the Mediterranean Sea with pristine beaches, vibrant turquoise water and incredible nature reserves. The Italian island of Sardinia is home to forests, caves, mountains, rivers and lakes scattered across the landscape.
It’s an idyllic place to escape to for a short break or longer trip, the island is massive covering an area of over 24,000km2. It would be a challenge to see most of the island in a week and we would suggest to travel slow and base yourself in one area either north or south of the Island.
This guide will be focused mostly on the North of Sardinia, sharing with you the best places to visit, best beaches on the island and what to do in this area of the island.
If you’re looking for more Italy travel inspiration check out our Dolomites guide, whether you should visit the Dolomites in April and our Lana South Tyrol guide.
Where is Sardinia?
In the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, Sardinia is an Italian island located to the west of Italy, south of Corsica and north of Tunisia. Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily with a diverse range of landscapes from forests to crystal clear water and mountains.
What is Sardinia known for?
Sardinia is mostly famous for its incredible white sandy beaches, crystal clear azure water and picture perfect coves making it a beach lovers paradise.
This Italian island has over 1,800 kilometres of coastline and over 200 beaches to discover! The island is known for secluded coves, charming coastal villages, natural beauty, traditional cuisine and archaeological sites. A popular holiday destination for many Italians, Sardinia offers the relaxing island life for those wanting to escape from mainland Italy.
Rock formations on Sardinia are what make their beaches beautiful with their impressive shapes and colours that make each beach unique and show a different perspective of the beach from above. This can make the beaches look somewhat similar to those you’d expect to see on the Seychelles and the colour of the water comparable to Tahiti or the Maldives.
How to get to Sardinia?
by FERRY
There are regular ferry services to the east of Sardinia from mainland Italy from Genoa, Livorno and Civitavechhia which take you across the Tyrrhenian Sea. The shortest and most direct route to the north east of Sardinia is from Civitacechhia to Olbia which takes around 5 hours and costs approximately £50-120 per person, another alternative route is from Livorno to Olbia which can take a similar journey duration.
One of the longest routes to Sardinia by ferry is from Genoa to Olbia which can take from 8-9 hours depending on what’s available and costs from £70-150 per person. Options to the north west of Sardinia are available from Genoa to Porto Torres and the journey takes 11 hours. There is another option to catch a ferry from Marseille to Porto Torres which is shorter journey from 8 hours.
Once you have arrived on the island, Sardinia has a great network of roads and makes it easily accessible, in good condition and is easy to navigate with most of the roads well sign posted. Whilst driving in Sardinia it is similar to the rest of mainland Europe that you will drive on the right hand side of the road.
By plane
The two main airports in north Sardinia are Alghero Airport and Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport which have many international routes with major airlines. The Alghero Airport is located on the western side of the island, making it the best base if you plan to explore the north west of Sardinia. Oblia Costa Smeralda Airport is located on the north eastern side of Sardinia and is the second largest city on the island.
Car rental is available from both airports making it easy to get out and explore the island at your own pace and discover gems along the way to your accommodation. We visited in 2022, car rental prices were expensive at approximately £100 per day, however typical costs are currently £25-35 per day for a basic economy car. Alternatively, public transport such as buses and taxis are also available.
How to get around Sardinia?
By Car
Once you have arrived on the island, Sardinia has a great network of roads and makes it easily accessible, in good condition and is easy to navigate with most of the roads well sign posted. Whilst driving in Sardinia it is similar to the rest of mainland Europe that you will drive on the right hand side of the road.
The roads connect the major towns and cities in north Sardinia and there are beautiful coastal roads which are worth driving for incredible views. In some of the old towns there are narrow streets and can be difficult to navigate, it’s worth checking your route before you follow the sat nav. Parking on the island can be limited at certain locations, especially lesser known beaches, however most beaches have dedicated car parks which are mostly paid.
By Bus
It is possible to get your way around Sardinia by bus, with regular bus services by ARST which is the main bus company and connects you to most towns and cities such as Alghero, Sassari and Olbia.
Whilst travelling by bus may require more planning, it is possible and can be a great way to travel slow around the island. It is worth checking the bus schedules online on the ARST website which gives up to date information on the bus service on Sardinia. Make sure to have some cash (Euros) with you to pay for your ticket on the bus or at a local ticket machine.
When is the best time to visit Sardinia?
Sardinia experiences wonderful warm weather throughout the year, thanks to its Mediterranean climate. We would recommend avoiding visiting Sardinia in August, as this is when most Italians are on holiday which can make it very difficult to find accommodation and will be one of the busiest times to visit.
If you plan to visit during summer, it’s best to visit June, July and September when the weather is warm enough to swim in the ocean and great for water sports. There are also a number of local festivals in North Sardinia including; Festa di San Giovanni Battista (June 24th), Sagra del Redentore (July) and Settembre di Alghero (September).
Whereas spring will have cooler but still warm temperatures, there are more options and better prices for accommodation and flights, at this time of year there are beautiful wildflowers and everything is lush and green. Easter brings many religious festivals across the island and other festivals during spring include Sagra di Sant’Efisio (May), Alghero Carnival (February/March) and Spring time classical concerts in Sassari.
The best time to visit Sardinia to enjoy the beaches with warm weather, sunshine and the least amount of crowds is June and late September/October with a chance to get a good deal on your accommodation and flights. We visited in June and the temperature was perfect to enjoy swimming in the water, sunbathe on the beach and enjoy beautiful warm evenings without massive crowds. The average temperature in June reaches a high of 26°C and a low of 17°C.
What are the best things to see and do in North Sardinia?
North Sardinia has beautiful villages and coastal towns, spectacular sandy beaches and historical sites and there are so many places to choose from we’ve put together our favourite spots including best things to do, best villages and towns to visit and best beaches.
BOAT TOUR THE Maddalena Archipelago
Embark on a boat excursion to the enchanting Maddalena Archipelago, where you’ll discover secluded coves, crystal-clear waters, and unspoiled nature. The Maddalena National Park was created in 1994 covering more than 60 islands and is sculpted from granite and schist.
We rented a rib boat with Zonza boat rental in Cannigione and visited Budelli, an island with a pink beach and has the most incredible colour turquoise water. The great thing about hiring a rib boat is that you are not required to have a licence and can go at your own pace and choose where you want to visit.
We rented the boat for half a day (1:30-6pm) and the fuel provided in the boat but you had to return it with fuel in which cost €150. There is also the option to hire a boat with a skipper, this way you can enjoy the journey without having to drive and navigate to the islands. Bring snorkelling goggles to spot fish, turtles, dolphins and experience the clarity of the water for yourself!
Capo Ferro (Arzachena) Lighthouse
The view from Capo Ferro lighthouse is worth the effort, the lighthouse sits on the Strait of Bonifacio and is a wonderful place to watch the sunset. To get to the lighthouse you can park at Cap Ferro Military Zone and to the right of the building there is a path that you follow to the left reach the lighthouse by the sea. It’s a short walk to the lighthouse and the trail is a rocky and uneven in places with steep steps to the lighthouse.
La Fortezza di Monte Altura
La Foretezza di Monte Altura is an impressive 19th-century fort which was built to protect the north coast of Sardinia and can be seen from miles as it stands proudly on a rocky outcrop. There is a free car park opposite the fort for easy access and the fort has sweeping views across the northern coastline and also a great location for sunset.
Best Beaches in North Sardinia
Spiaggia Fantasia (Fantasia beach)
We stumbled across this place after doing a bit of searching on google maps for a place to watch the sunset and it was an adventure to find. Fantasia beach is a lovely secluded spot, close to a small boat harbour. An idyllic beach to watch the sunset and the passing boats in the evening and feels like something out of a fairytale, with trees that encroach right up to the coast and rocks carved by nature into sculptures.
The rock formations are what make this beach unique and create some very interesting shapes similar to the more popular bear rock on the island (Capo d’Orso). There are parking spots along the dirt track (Via Porto Sole) and the beach is a short walk through lush greenery where you might be lucky enough to have this place all to yourself.
Spiaggia del Principe/Portu Li Coggi
Known as one of the best beaches on the Costa Smeralda, Spiaggia del Principe also known as Portu Li Coggi was one of the most beautiful beaches, we loved it so much we visited it twice! A sheltered beach close to the village of Cala di Volpe, the beach is accessible via a rocky, sandy path which takes around 10 minutes and gets hot during the day so make sure to bring sandals or shoes to protect your feet from the heat.
The beach has a rocky outcrop which is perfect to swim from and explore and has some trees which offer some shade from the sun. Many beaches do not have much shelter so it’s worth bringing an umbrella or other form of shade to escape the midday/afternoon heat. The colour and clarity of the water here is spectacular, making this beach perfect for snorkelling.
There is plenty of parking available, the nearest car park is paid and there is also free parking available on the road. On the beach you’ll find bins dotted across the beach, the occasional beach vendor and there is a bar that serves food and drinks. As a more popular beach, Spiaggia del Principe does get busy from around 10am and if you plan to visit for the day we’d recommend you get there before 10am to get a spot.
Spiaggia Rena Majori
The Rena Majori beach in North Sardinia is located on the north west of the island and the dense pine forest landscape is a contrast to the other beaches and is close to the village of Rena Majore. A beautiful white sandy beach with rock pools to explore and is backed by extensive sand dune formations.
Spiaggia Rena Majori is west facing making it perfect for watching the sunset. There is plenty of parking available at this spot right next to the beach with a very short walk to the sandy shore. The beach is relatively flat making it ideal for swimmers and snorkelling.
Spiaggia Li Itriceddi
There are many beaches located along this stretch of coastline from Cala di Volpe to Portisco. Li Itriceddi beach is a beautiful golden sandy beach surrounded by fragrant pine trees. There are nearby smaller beaches which we’d recommend exploring to including Spiaggia Piccola Licia Ruja which are secluded and serene spots.
There are sun chairs and umbrellas available to rent on Spiaggia Piccola Licia Ruja and parking is is a short 5 minute walk to the beach. This is a great place to spot super yachts from the shore whilst you sunbathe on the beach.
SPIAGGIA Porto Istana (PORTO ISTANA BEACH)
Porto Istana beach is only a short 20 minute drive from Olbia in the north-east Sardinia and Porto Istana is a beautiful village with lovely cafés and restaurants. The beach is a very popular spot and as it close to the city this makes it easily accessible to city-dwellers.
The views from Porto Istana transports you to feel like you’re on a movie set with the island of Tavolara creating the most magnificent and unique view. There is paid parking a short walk from the beach and is perfect for families and couples to enjoy crystal clear water and lovely golden sand.
Spiaggia Grande Pevero (GRANDE PEVERO beach)
This beach is known for the incredible vibrant blue colour of the water and is admired for its beauty as it is surrounded by sand dunes and a pond. Grande Pevero beach is located a 5 minute drive south of Porto Cervo and has a beach bar.
The first part of the beach is mostly covered in beach chairs and umbrellas, however there is a section available for those who’d rather chill on the beach on a towel. A popular spot for boats to dock, as Grande Pevero provides a lovely sheltered spot to swim and snorkel.
The walk down to the beach takes around 15 minutes, however you can get a golf buggy down to the beach for a fee, however the walk down is not difficult and you pass by many beautiful houses and flowers.
Best towns to visit in North Sardinia
Cannigione
A contrast to busier parts of North Sardinia, Cannigione provides a more local and authentic experience of the island without the crowds. Originally a fishing village, Cannigione is a town located in north-east Sardinia and a 20 minute drive from Porto Cervo.
Markets line the streets on Lungomare Andrea Doria in Cannigione and showcase local crafts such as jewellery and clothing in the evenings opposite the harbour which makes it perfect for an evening stroll.
There are many shops, cafés, bars, restaurants and hotels in the village of Cannigione. The village has several lovely, scenic parks which are perfect for a picnic overlooking the sea and there are many beautiful beaches within a short walk.
If you want to visit the nearby Maddalena Archipelago National Park, there are many boat trips that depart from Cannigione including ferrys and private boat tours. Cannigione has a beautiful church and streets that are great to explore and give you a feel for Sardinian life.
There is a great ice cream at Gelateria Artiginale L'Angolo which is worth a visit, or more! Grab a cone of your favourite flavour and walk along the promenade to find a bench to sit and enjoy the view.
You’ll be spoilt for choice on places to eat and many restaurants serve Sardinian delicacies such as Fregola (large couscous), Culurgionis (filled pasta), Porceddu (roasted suckling pig), Cassola (mussles soup). There is plenty of parking in the harbour and just north opposite the Riva Azzurra park.
Santa Teresa Gallura
Nestled in North Sardinia, Santa Teresa Gallura faces the southern tip of Corsica and on a clear day you can see the coastline from here. There are many shops, wander the colourful streets, restaurants and cafés to enjoy and has a tourism office.
The Spanish tower (Torre Spagnola or Torre di Longonsardo) is perched on a headland with spectacular views of the coastline, the port and the local beach on the other side known as Spiaggia Rena Bianca.
Olbia
On our last day on the island, we decided to spend the afternoon in Olbia and we really enjoyed this small city. Close to the harbour is a wonderful park called Parco giochi per bambini, perfect for a picnic or in our case to enjoy our last delicious authentic Italian pizza for a while…There is a ferris wheel offering panoramic views, an Archaeological museum and you can tour the city by tuktuk.
You can hire an electric scooter, or enjoy exploring the city by foot. Discover quaint streets and many restaurant options and a great place to do some shopping. Olbia is one of the most important harbours in Italy and located close to the popular Costa Smeralda.
Where to stay in North Sardinia?
Whilst staying on the island of Sardinia, we would recommend staying in rural accommodation that offers a tranquil and peaceful setting away from the coast. We stayed in a rural villa which gave a more authentic experience of how many live on the island and the owner was able to give us many recommendations and tips.
North Sardinia is the perfect destination in spring and summer to enjoy beautiful lush green landscapes, sculpted rocks, turquoise water and golden sandy beaches. This island is truly a paradise waiting to show you it’s diverse culture, delicious cuisine and incredible scenery. On the island you will experience ‘La Docle Vita’ which means the sweet life and you might find yourself dreaming of a life spent on Sardinia.
