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This press trip was organised by the Jordan Tourism Board (JTB). The opinions expressed within this article are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions and beliefs of JTB.
Set off on an adventure where shimmering treasures wait to be discovered in Jordan, an exceptionally diverse destination where around each corner reveals a new wonder. Imagine hiking through pristine river valleys, where the crystal-clear waters lead you deeper into the ravine to experience the serenity of nature. Step back in time to discover the ancient wonders which whisper the stories of long-lost civilisations.
There’s more to Jordan than Petra, the Dead Sea or Wadi Rum, these places are sensational but it has many hidden treasures that make it more than the photographs you might have seen online. Jordan is a place where the spirit of its people embraces you with a warm welcome, with their arms outstretched to show you what makes this country a truly unforgettable destination.
This guide will share with you some of the more undiscovered parts, and lesser-known spots in Jordan sharing hidden gems that we knew little about before setting off to this jewel in the Middle East. Our ultimate 10-day Jordan itinerary is a detailed travel guide for adventure, hiking, ancient wonders, nature, must-visit sights and uncovering the path less travelled.
Each day shares with you the best places to eat, unbeatable experiences, and where to stay along this route. We also share a daily video diary of our 10 day Jordan adventure and have linked each YouTube video at the end of the day if you’d like to see the trip through our eyes.
Stay tuned for our Jordan series of articles and sign up for our newsletter to be notified of when they go live for more tips and tricks.
35 Things to Know Before Visiting Jordan
Eco-tourism in Jordan - the top nature spots to visit
A city guide to Amman
A hiking guide to Wadi Hasa
Hiking from Little Petra to the Monastery
21 Things to Do in Jordan
What to pack when visiting Jordan
10 Day Jordan Itinerary Overview
Day 1 - 2 | Amman
Day 3 | Azraq reserve
Day 4 | Shomari reserve and Burqu Lodge
Day 5 | Jerash/Dead Sea
Day 6 | Wadi Mujib and Shobak castle
Day 7 | Wadi Hasa
Day 8 | Little Petra and wine tasting
Day 9 | Petra back trail hike and Wadi Rum
Day 10 | Wadi Rum and return to Amman
10 Day JORDAN itinerary MAP
This map shares all the locations mentioned in this article making it easy to find these places on the go. To use the map click on the top left button to reveal the map legend including all the places we visited in Jordan which is organised into each day.
The bottom left allows you to zoom in and out of the map. The top right buttons let you share the map and make it full screen for even better functionality.
how to get to Jordan?
There are two main international airports in Jordan, Queen Alia International Airport just outside Amman and King Hussein International Airport in Aqaba. Amman is a great base for exploring Jordan and is where we start our 10 day adventure. As the capital city of Jordan, Amman has many wonderful sights that are included in this guide.
If flying to Aqaba this itinerary can be reversed as you will start closer to Wadi Rum and Petra. We didn’t visit Aqaba so can’t give much advice on what to expect and whether it’s worth visiting (but hopefully we can on our next visit!).
Check online for the best flight deals to Jordan, we found that most flights arrive at unsociable hours and its worth checking into your hotel to get some rest before you set off on your first day otherwise you’ll be playing sleep catch-up the whole time.
How to get around Jordan?
As a relatively small country, Jordan is fairly easy to navigate which makes it ideal to explore by car. Public transport is possible in Jordan but requires more planning and less spontaneity, there are bus schedules online which also show available routes to most of the popular sites.
Renting a car in Jordan is another option, one that offers the most flexibility and as the roads are in good condition makes it a great choice. We also noticed that most Jordanians were fairly relaxed drivers especially when compared to other nearby countries such as Egypt and Morocco.
This guide includes sections that are off-road and would require a 4x4, While it’s not necessarily technical driving, having 4WD will allow you to explore more places that are quite literally off the beaten track. During our time in Jordan, we had our wonderful driver Mohammed take us to all the places listed in this guide, he entertained us along the way and became a dear friend.
Another excellent choice for Jordan is to join a tour company or hire a guide. We had the incredible Mutaz Jarrar, an experienced adventure and certified ENSA hiking guide take us on a trip of a lifetime! We’d highly recommend exploring Jordan with Mutaz, he made us feel completely at ease, ensuring we were safe and his enthusiasm for nature was infectious.
Mutaz’s in-depth knowledge of exploring hidden gems made this adventure extra special. Mutaz gave depth and insight into fascinating topics related to nature and culture that you wouldn’t get if exploring the country solo. The best way to contact Mutaz is by emailing mutazjr@gmail.com and he will be able to help you with your Jordanian adventure.
Day 1 - Amman
Sights | Explore Jabal Al Luweibdeh, Blue Mosque and Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts Park
The capital of Jordan, Amman was created on seven hills (jabals), and today has expanded beyond the seven jabals to more than 4 million residents. Amman is a treasure trove of cultural diversity and architectural wonders from lost civilisations. Located on the eastern edge of the Jordan River, Amman is one of the oldest cities in the world, with a continuous population since 7000 BCE.
Outside the original city boundary of Amman, Jordanians would refer to this area as the land of the Hyenas, a wild desolate area which would seem an inhospitable and hostile setting to live. Today, the land of Hyenas is enveloped by homes as far as the eye can see, spilling past this previously deemed inhospitable land where many live in harmony and seek the comfort and peace that can be found in the relaxing oasis of Amman.
Amman has changed hands for thousands of years, seized by empires and nations who renamed the ancient city multiple times. Previously named Rabbath Ammon, it was changed to Philadelphia by the Greeks to modern-day Amman. Amman is a city of contrasts, the modern part of Amman known as The Boulevard feels somewhat out of place when compared to the rest of the city.
The neighbourhood of Jabal Al Luweibdeh (Weibdeh) has a vibrant creative scene, breathing endless charm as one of the oldest areas of Amman. Weibdeh is an enchanting neighbourhood that became one of our favourite spots in Amman. It has art galleries, cafés, quirky shops, restaurants, street art and parks.
After landing very early in Amman, we checked into The Boulevard Arjaan by Rotana to catch up on some sleep before exploring the city. After pulling ourselves away from the hotel, it was time to explore the Weibdeh neighbourhood.
Rumi Café
Mutaz took us to Rumi café, named after the world-renowned 13th-century Persian Poet, Jalaluddin Rumi. Opened in 2012 as a small coffee shop on the street corner, Rumi has grown in both size and popularity, welcoming locals, and visitors and attracting digital nomads.
Rumi has a lovely outdoor terrace spot, shaded from the sun, sharing periodic bursts of water mist. The café serves fresh juices, coffees, teas, cakes and light lunch options. At café Rumi you have to try watermelon and cheese, an unassuming combination made even sweeter with mint. Another favourite from Rumi was the delicious Turkey Sandwich with a secret creamy sauce and the most delicious rustic bread.
Weibdeh
With our cravings satisfied, it was time to wander around the streets of Weibdeh. Opposite Rumi there is an old blue VW which is a bookstore where the books overspill onto the streets. The street art scene is strong, many with political motifs and messages framed by fragrant jasmine and bougainvillaea.
Jordanians instinctively welcome you to their country with big smiles and even the Tourist Police gave us big waves and smiles. Take a wander around one of the few green spaces in the city at the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts Park, scattered with sculptures, pines, and rosemary.
King Abdullah I Mosque
One of the most iconic Mosques in Amman is the King Abdullah I Mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque which honours King Abdullah I who led Jordan to independence after the British mandate in 1946. The mosque was completed in 1989 and features a beautiful blue tiled dome roof and is one of the only mosques in Amman that non-muslim visitors can enter.
To enter the mosque you must cover your arms and legs, there are robes available as men must cover their legs and women must cover their arms and legs and for women, there is also a hood or scarve to cover your head.
Before entering the dome prayer hall, you must remove your shoes and be respectful of those praying by keeping your voices quiet. Once you step inside the prayer hall your eyes will be drawn up towards the grand chandelier and beams of light shining through the stained glass windows.
Habib Beirut
That evening, we’d highly recommend dinner at the Lebanese restaurant Habib Beirut, located in the modern part of Amman known as Abdali or The Boulevard. Sit outside to watch the main street in The Boulevard come alive at night whilst enjoying the most incredible Lebanese food.
You’ll notice that Shisha and smoking are common throughout Jordan and the city comes to life at night as the temperature cools. Make sure to try Ghazl el Banet, a delicious dessert made of candy floss and creamy ice cream, topped with pistachios.
Day 2 - Amman
Sights | Citadel, Roman amphitheatre, Nymphaeum, Souq Al-Sukar, Duke’s Diwan, cooking class
Qahwa BLK
Get up early to grab a coffee on the go at Qahwa BLK, one of the trendiest spots for coffee on the Boulevard and at a very reasonable price too. This will give you the energy you need to explore Amman with a full day ahead!
Citadel
Take a taxi or drive to the Jebel Al Qala'a also known as the Amman Citadel, an archaeological wonder believed to be one of the longest inhabited places in the world and the highest point in Amman at 850 metres above sea level.
The gates open at 8am and the earliest closing time is 5pm from November to December and the latest closing time is 8pm from mid May till the end of August. The citadel is included in the Jordan Pass, if you don’t have it an entrance ticket costs 3 JD and is 0.25 JD for Jordanians.
It is not compulsory to hire a guide at the Citadel, but if you do it provides in-depth knowledge of the many different places of interest across the site. The citadel shows evidence of civilisation from 9000 years ago.
The great Temple of Hercules has a few remaining pillars standing, where parts were reconstructed. Huge pieces of marble columns lay collapsed on the ground, holes in the middle illustrating how the Romans would’ve constructed each pillar.
It’s assumed the other original stones were re-used elsewhere before an earthquake in the mid 8th century which destroyed the rest of the building. In 1992 and 1993 restoration efforts recreated some of the temple to aid your imagination of its previous form.
One of the best views is opposite the Temple of Hercules, a small platform presenting 360 views of Amman from the Citadel, with the largest Jordanian flag standing at 150 metres tall, slowly moving in the breeze.
There are Roman baths, mosques, Roman temple, Byzantine church, Umayyad palace, caves, water reservoirs and mansions that have been uncovered with much more of the site still left buried under the ground.
Next to the Temple of Hercules, archaeologists uncovered a marble statue, thought to have been over 13 metres tall. The only fragments remaining of the statue of Hercules are a hand and elbow. It is suspected that the statue of Hercules was destroyed by an earthquake, the fingers of Hercules illustrate the enourmous scale of the statue.
Roman Amphitheatre
From the Citadel you get a first glimpse of the magnificent Roman Amphitheatre of Amman, holding a capacity of 6,000 people. It’s around a 20 minute walk from the Citadel downhill to see the detailed Roman construction and perform to the crowds by standing in the perfectly marked position which will effortlessly project your voice.
The amphitheatre is still used for live performances and the building has survived many earthquakes over time which stands as proof to the craftsmanship and engineering behind its construction. There is a museum onsite which displays examples of traditional Jordanian life, and ways of living from the interior of houses to dresses and handcrafts from rug making and jewellery.
Roman Nymphaeum
On your way to Souq Al-Sukar, stop by the Roman Nymphaeum which was built in 191 AD as a monument, and is believed to be the largest fountain made from limestone. The building was a two-story complex with mosaics, stone carvings and possibly a 600 square metre swimming pool.
Souq Al-Sukar
Souq Al-Sukar is located in the old town of Amman, the market sells mostly fresh fruit and vegetables, spiced nuts, meat and spices. The market atmosphere is very chilled and calm with a semi-covered roof to provide shade from the sun.
King Faisal Square
Carry onto King Faisal Square where there are more streets clustered into shops for gold, textiles, bride clothes and more. Make sure to stop at Habibah serving the most popular dessert in Amman, Knafeh which is a sweet pastry made with cheese, and syrup called attar and topped with pistachios. Be prepared to wait as there is usually a long queue for this delicious Arabic treat.
Duke’s Diwan
Another place worth visiting is the Duke’s Diwan, as one of the oldest houses in Amman, it was historically a post office, then a hotel and most recently was preserved by Mamdouh Bisharat. A well-respected man, recognised by the King for his conservation and heritage efforts being given the title Duke of Mukhaibeh, hence the name the Duke’s Diwan.
Diwan translates to a room that is always open and the Duke’s Diwan was a place where people would gather and discuss ideas. Today it is still used as an event space for artists and musicians. Mamdouh had a pulley that allowed him to get direct access to the delicious Knafeh below at Habibah.
Beit Sitti
After all that exploring around Amman, it’s time to learn about an age-old tradition very close to Jordanians, cooking! A great way to get an immersive experience of the place you are visiting is doing a cooking class.
Beit Sitti has a wonderful setting overlooking the rooftops of Amman in Webdeigh. It’s a beautiful house, where the owners grandmothers wishes were that the house was used for teaching Jordanian cuisine. Beit Sitti is the one of the best places in Amman to learn special cooking techniques and make mouth-watering Jordanian dishes.
Um Reem taught us numerous dishes including Maqloubeh, Musakhan rolls, Arabic salad, mutabbal, manaqeesh znaatar and mixed veggies and she was very proud of our efforts. We’d highly recommend the experience and is a fantastic way to learn about the amazing tastes of Jordan and a chance to recreate them when you return home.
Day 3 - Azraq Wetland Reserve
SIGHTS | Azraq Wetland Reserve, Azraq Desert Castles, Chechen Local experience
Azraq Lodge
Wake up at the wonderful Azraq Lodge, only 1.5 hours from Amman this former hospital was used in the 1940s during the British Mandate, and was converted into the ultimate adventure lodge.
It has a safari lodge feel with a Land Rover Defender welcoming you at the entrance, sparking your curiosity to get out and explore the local area. Azraq Lodge has several guest rooms and a large, covered outdoor courtyard area with seating to enjoy breakfast.
Azraq Lodge is operated by the Royal Society of the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), a conservation association that protects wildlife and biodiversity across Jordan in ten designated protected reserves through several initiatives.
Old photographs hang on the wall as an ode to the lodge's past, faces of researchers and conservationists which have contributed toward the efforts of protecting Azraq Wetland Reserve.
Azraq Wetland Reserve
The most striking photographs are those of the water perimeter at Azraq Wetland Reserve retreating to scarce levels, almost desert-like unable to sustain wildlife. In contrast with the most recent aerial photographs displaying vibrant shades of green and an abundance of water.
Azraq Wetland Reserve is a 5-minute drive from Azraq Lodge and has a main reception building where you can learn all about the history of the reserve. We met with Jaffar, a local RSCN guide who took us on a walking tour around Azraq Wetland Reserve starting with the wooden boardwalk which crosses over one of the lakes.
The tall reeds tower over you and singing birds fill the air, leaving only your imagination to what is around the corner. There are archaeological features including the remains of a Roman wall and lookout hides to sit and observe emerging wildlife.
As we sat in one of the mud-covered hides, a wild water buffalo slowly came into view, then another one and another one until a young water buffallo revealed itself. One water buffalo started to gracefully enter the lake one of the lakes. We also spotted a snake swimming in the lake, several birds and birds of prey.
Chechen local experience
For lunch RSCN arranged a Chechen lunch with a local lady Khadija, to learn about the story of the Chechen people in Jordan. She shared stories with us about her heritage, culture and traditions of the Chechen people.
We were mesmerised by her wonderful presence, a strong woman who stands up for herself and doesn’t tolerate unkind behaviour or disrespect, but she also has a kind and gentle heart.
It took the Chechens over 4 years to travel from the Caucasus region to Jordan and when they arrived the Bedouin people started to kill them, thinking they were Christian and did not realise they were also Muslim.
The Chechens are a fascinating people, adapting to their environment and using innovative techniques to survive, such as using wool string to transport water up to their houses by wetting either end.
It was fascinating to learn that there are several Chechen symbols which use cross shapes and around 600 years ago, Chechens were Christian and used phrases referring to the two books.
We wore traditional Chechen clothes, beautiful embroidered dresses. The men typically wear jackets which have holes at the back for guns and a scarf tied around the waist to hold a sword. Small glass tubes are held in the pockets across the chest for gunpowder.
Azraq Desert Castles
There are several castles in the area surrounding Azraq, these were built along an old trading route where caravans would pass through the Syrian desert. Qasr Al-Harranah is over 1000 years old, we climbed ancient stairs to discover rooms and imagined the many guests who would have passed through.
Quseir 'Amra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, constructed by the Umayyads in the 8th century as a palace and bathhouse. Quseir 'Amra is one of the oldest examples of a hammam in Muslim history, there are intricate paintings all over the walls depicting bears playing instruments, monkeys and people in the nude. Entrance to the site costs 1 JD and includes Qasr al Azraq and Qasr Kharana.
Qasr al Azraq is made completely of Basalt, a black volcanic rock and the entrance to the castle has huge doors carved from the rocks which rotate without the use of hinges and are very heavy. We explored Azraq castle just before sunset and this fortress was used by T.E.Lawrence as a base during the Arab Revolt.
That evening we went on a quest for an epic sunset location. Qasr Al-Usaykhim or Qasr Aseikhin is a 30-minute drive from Azraq Lodge. The ruins of the fortification structure are located on the top of an extinct volcano in the middle of the Syrian desert. There are delicate archways which have survived this otherwise derelict outpost.
Day 4 - Shaumari Wildlife Reserve and Burqu Lodge
SIGHTS | Shaumari Wildlife Reserve and Burqu Nature Reserve
Shaumari Wildlife Reserve
Around 30 minutes from Azraq Lodge is the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve where you can experience a safari in an open Jeep around the reserve to discover over 200 different plants and animals in Shaumari.
Shaumari Wildlife Reserve was created as a final attempt to protect the Arabian Oryx, as hunting almost made them extinct and it’s now an endemic species. There are a total of 120 Oryx in the reserve and roam in herds of 20. On the safari in Shaumari, we also spotted 3 male wild donkeys and some wild donkey bones.
There is a large visitor centre near the entrance of the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, sharing all the information about the history of the reserve with viewing platforms for the Ostrich and Oryx which have to be kept separate from the reserve due to genetic defects. There is also a picnic area and playground space for kids.
Burqu Lodge
The Harrat al-Sham desert is located in the remote northeast of Jordan, Burqu Lodge sits within the Al-Badia in Burqu Nature Reserve and is surrounded by Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Burqu Nature Reserve covers over 960 km2 and was designated as a protected area for nature in 2018.
The adventure starts with finding the lodge, we were met by the park rangers on the main road who led us into the desert. Burqu Lodge is a modern oasis in the middle of desert and is managed by RSCN. There are ten rooms and they feel luxurious in relation to their location. The lodge is powered by a generator which runs in the evening for you to charge electrics.
That evening we arrived at Burqu Lodge, we were welcomed with mint tea and dates. The rangers arranged a fire by a nearby lake and Qasr Burqu, one of the earliest desert castles to watch a beautiful sunset and watch the stars appear.
Day 5 - Burqu Nature REserve and Jerash
SIGHTS | Burque Nature Reserve, Beit Khairat Souf, Jerash, Dead Sea
Burqu Nature Reserve
The next morning, we learnt that there was a nearby forest in the desert around 20km from Burqu Lodge. We drove the Jeep north towards the Syrian border, from a dark basalt, volcanic landscape which transformed into a sandy, golden desert until we eventually reached a lush forest and lake.
The water basin is a sanctuary teeming with bird life, abundant in local and migratory birds, including storks, sandpipers, larks, cranes, buzzards, eagles and vultures.
Burqu Nature Reserve is also home to gazelles, caracals, hyenas, foxes and hares. Burqu is also known as the Black Desert, from the basalt rocks. It forms part of the larger Al-Badia, which covers most of the desert areas in Jordan and is one of the country's least visited and least populated places.
Access to Burqu Lodge requires a 4x4 and this remote part of Jordan has a collection of Desert castles which used to provide refuge for caravans passing along this trading route. There are also examples of early inscriptions rock carvings that show camels, oryx, ibex and people carved onto basalt rock.
Beit Khairat Souf
On our way to Jerash, we stopped at Beit Khairat Souf restaurant for lunch, managed by the women-led organisation, Alnoor Almouben Association. They offer opportunities for women in the village to work by creating crafts, food and local products which you can buy in their gift shop. Pomegranate molasses, jewellery, pickles, jams, textiles and much more are all made by the local women.
Beit Khairat Souf has a beautiful outdoor space under a huge canopy surrounded by olive tree branches, which provide shade and a peaceful setting to enjoy the delicious traditional Jordanian food served at the restaurant.
Jerash
Often referred to as the Pompeii of the Middle East, Jerash is only an hour’s drive from Amman and is one of the best-preserved Roman cities outside of Europe. The ancient city of Jerash dates back to over 6,500 years ago and was founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC.
Previously known as Gerasa under Greco-Roman rule, Jerash was a central hub of creativity and productivity located along several important trading routes, where theatres, temples, Roman baths, plazas, churches, fountains, and other impressive monuments were built in the city.
The strategic location of Jerash was fed by nearby natural springs, supplying the nymphaeum, bathhouses and many fountains across the city.
A devastating earthquake in 749 AD brought many of the magnificent structures in the city to the ground and was later abandoned. It was buried under sand until 1806 when it was rediscovered by Ulrich Jasper Seetzen and then further by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, who later discovered Petra.
Dead Sea
After exploring the spectacular city of Jerash, we ventured south towards the Dead Sea. We arrived just in time for sunset at the RSCN Mujib chalets, located in a much quieter part when compared to the popular northeast resorts. The Mujib chalets are found on the eastern edge of the Dead Sea, opposite Wadi Mujib.
The isolated location of the Mujib Chalets makes them a relaxing retreat to enjoy the peace of the salt water and surrounding picturesque cliffs. There is access to the private beach with a path leading you to the shore of the Dead Sea. There are showers to wash off the salt as you walk back to the chalets and have to boast some of the best views.
The rooms at Mujib Chalets have a balcony where you can enjoy the ocean view and look across to the Holy Land and Jerusalem. There is a large double bed, air-con, wardrobe, shower, sink and toilet which is everything you will need. There is breakfast, dinner served each day which is buffet style and we were really impressed with the food at all of the RSCN lodges.
Here are a few tips for swimming in the Dead Sea;
do not shave the day before
enter where there are darker rocks
do not walk on the salt (white areas) as it is sharp
wear water shoes or jelly shoes to protect your feet if you are not a confident swimmer or have soft feet
relax when entering the water and lean on your back
do not get water in your eyes or on your face
avoid entering if you have cuts as they will sting
DAY 6 - Wadi Mujib and Shobak castle
SIGHTS | Wadi Mujib, Salt beach, Shobak Castle, smallest hotel in the world
Wadi Mujib Biosphere Reserve
After spending one last morning dip in the Dead Sea, it was time to check out of the Mujib Chalets and go on an adventure in one of Jordan’s beautiful Wadi’s. Wadi Mujib is conveniently located opposite the chalets, a very short walk or drive across to the entrance which has a car park.
Wadi Mujib is a river canyon trail located in the Mujib Biosphere Reserve, the lowest nature reserve in the world which enters the Dead Sea at 410 metres below sea level. Because of its proximity to the Dead Sea, Wadi Mujib is the ideal addition to any itinerary whilst in the area.
The Mujib Biosphere Reserve extends to Karak and the Madaba mountains reaching an elevation of 1,300 metres. The reserve provides the ideal habitat for a bountiful amount of biodiversity which you will observe along your adrenalin-fuelled adventure navigating the meandering river canyon along the Siq Trail in Wadi Mujib.
It’s worth noting that Wadi Mujib is closed during the winter months due to high river levels and is usually open from April to the end of October. The self-guided experience takes around 2 hours from start to finish. It takes longer to begin with as you are walking against the current and on your return the current of the river gives you a gentle push back.
We visited in June and the water levels were relatively low for most of the hike and got up to our shoulders in places. If you plan to visit earlier in the season then expect it to be a bit higher, also depending on rainfall. Whilst climbing down ladders your hair and shoulders will get wet from the waterfall and are powerful which does require some upper body strength.
Here are a few tips for the Siq Trail in Wadi Mujib:
Wear swimwear and shorts to protect your upper legs on the rocks. You will be climbing up ladders, over rocks and sliding down small waterfalls
Wear closed shoes such as trainers or water shoes which will give you enough grip but protect your toes from underwater rocks that you can’t not see
Take a 100% waterproof dry bag if you plan to bring your phone or camera
Leave valuables behind, such as jewellery, wallets etc as there are free lockers to use next to the ticket office
Bring a bottle of water to keep hydrated
Once you reach the end of the Wadi Mujib Siq trail, there is a 20-metre waterfall and it is not safe to jump into the waterfall. The rocks have been carved by erosion over millions of years and were formed more than 500 million years ago. As you walk through the river gorge look at the layers in the rocks which determine the difference between when it was a river or ocean over the years.
You may feel nibbling on your legs in places and these are small fish that are happy to give you a spa treatment, don’t worry they are just curious and don’t bite. When you arrive back at the visitor centre, there are changing rooms and toilets for you to swap into dry clothes.
There are several beautiful salt beaches on the Dead Sea along the way further south from Wadi Mujib. The salt has formed beautiful shapes and the colour of the water is a spectacular turquoise blue. If you choose to explore one of these salt beaches make sure to wear sturdy footwear that covers your toes as the salt is sharp and unstable in places.
Shobak Castle
Our next destination took us up through the mountains to Tafilah, a complete contrast to the arid landscapes surrounding the Dead Sea where green pine trees and an abundance of flowers and fruit trees grow. It was fascinating to discover that the mountain roads can be closed in the winter months due to snow.
A 2-hour drive from Wadi Mujib is the striking crusader castle on a hill. Shobak Castle stands on a rocky outcrop encircled by rolling sandy-hued hills. Shobak Castle sits on top of Mon Realis also known as Royal Mountain. After surviving many attacks from Saladin and his army, Shobak was taken over by Saladin in 1189.
As you walk up the road to the entrance to Shobak Castle, Arabic inscriptions are delicately engraved on the castle walls. Many visitors to Jordan will go to Kerak Castle, yet few visit Shobak and is a more authentic experience with secret passageways and the views from this UNESCO World Heritage site are unmatched.
We stayed at the Montréal Hotel which overlooks the spectacular Shobak castle, with WiFi and comfortable rooms with balconies to watch the sunset. The staff are very welcoming and there is the option for breakfast and dinner at Montréal Hotel.
DAY 7 - Wadi Al Hasa and Dana Biosphere Reserve
SIGHTS | Wadi Al Hasa, Dana Biosphere Reserve, Dana RSCN Guesthouse
Wadi Al Hasa Hike
Today we explored some of the best kept secrets in Jordan. We started the day early to set off on one of the most beautiful and extraordinary hikes in Jordan, Wadi Al Hasa. Wadi Al Hasa was mentioned in the Bible as the place where the Israelites ended their 38 years in the wilderness.
In summer, temperatures can reach over 40°C, making hiking in Jordan’s Wadis a remedy for the heat with the right preparation. There is a shaded car park protecting your car won’t from the heat of the sun and to start the trail, follow the irrigation channel upstream on the left-hand side passing through a fence.
The beginning of the hike is exposed to the sun without shade, whereas at Wadi Mujib you only have to walk a short distance until the towering gorge walls provide you with protection from the blistering heat.
Hiking in Wadi Al Hasa can be challenging for those with lower fitness levels. When you first reach the river it’s worth submersing yourself into the water to keep cool for the remaining section until you arrive at the entrance of the gorge.
The scenes from Wadi Al Hasa are what we would imagine from Bible stories we were told as kids, large tall reeds border the riverbank, speckled with vibrant pink oleander flowers. Wadi Al Hasa is a paradisical oasis with crystal clear water confined by the smooth sinuous sandstone walls that traces the river’s journey.
This Wadi Hasa hike should not be attempted alone, when entering the Waid there is no mobile phone signal and let someone know you are doing the hike. Ensure you have a good level of fitness and can tolerate the heat.
Even setting off early in the morning, we hiked back to the car just before midday and the heat was intense. Bring plenty of water with you and pack light, only bring the essentials. Lightweight walking boots or trainers are necessary for the hike, they must have good grip as the rocks can be slippery in places.
Other essentials for Wadi Al Hasa hike include something to cover your head and lightweight clothes that dry quickly which are not heavy when wet. Hannah wore swimwear under lightweight shorts and a baggy T-shirt, and Jonny wore lightweight shorts and a T-shirt. Suncream, sunglasses and first aid kit are also essential items for the hike.
It took around 5 hours to hike 10km in total (5km one way) into Wadi Al Hasa, it takes longer to walk into the Wadi as you are walking against the current, whereas on the way back you can let the power of the river take you back out. The water level in the wadi stays relatively similar throughout the summer and the deepest part goes to just below your shoulders.
There is the option to stay overnight in Wadi Al Hasa, unfortunately Hannah was affected by the heat and made the decision to spend half the day hiking. We would love to return and do the overnight hike in Wadi Al Hasa.
As you walk through Wadi Al Hasa, the environment shifts from one landscape to another. The smooth rocky cliffs change shape and colour from warm terracota, pinks and yellow. There are snakes and scorpions in the gorge, take caution when walking and look where you are stepping as they like to hide under rocks.
There are some smaller waterfalls which are fun to slide down and float back along the river. The scenes from Wadi Al Hasa have to be some of the most beautiful in Jordan, the further you walk into the Wadi, the channel narrows and the water sections are deeper with stronger currents.
No permit is required to walk in Wadi Al Hasa, it is advised to let someone know if are planning to hike into the gorge for your safety. The earliest you can start the hike is late April or early May depending on the season and is worth checking with the Jordan Tourism Board on the current conditions. It is not possible to hike in winter due to the danger of flash floods and high water levels in the wadi.
Dana Biosphere Reserve
After our wonderful hike, we headed towards Dana Biosphere Reserve, the largest nature reserve in Jordan. Dana is a hiker’s paradise and the start of the well-known 4-day hike from Dana to Petra which is part of the Jordan Trail.
The Dana Biosphere Reserve is the only reserve in Jordan with all four different bio-geographical zones found in the country which includes Mediterranean, Irano-Turanian, Sahara Arabian and Sudanian Penetration.
We stayed at Dana Guesthouse which is a RSCN lodge where they provide information each day on the best hikes and conditions.Our room at the Dana Guesthouse had a wonderful balcony to enjoy the most beautiful sunset over Wadi Dana and Rummana mountain.
Dana Guesthouse is thoughtfully designed, seamlessly blending into the rockface. There are also breathtaking views from the shower and upstairs there is a large sweeping balcony with seating to enjoy panoramic vistas of the reserve.
Day 8 - Little Petra And wine tasting
SIGHTS | Little Petra, AmmArin Base Camp, The Experience Jordan River wines
Little Petra
A short hour's drive south from Dana is Little Petra, an archaeological wonder known in Arabic as Siq Al-Barid. Many travellers to Jordan miss Little Petra off their itinerary and head straight to Petra which in our opinion is a mistake.
Little Petra is located a short 15 minute drive north of Petra and Wadi Musa. On the road to Little Petra, make sure to stop at one of the viewpoints before you start the descent into the valley as there are breathtaking views of Wadi Musa. It is a popular sunset spot with locals offering unobstructed views across the valley giving this place a special spark.
Siq Al-Barid translates to ‘cold canyon’ and walking through there is a welcoming cooling breeze. Little Petra is free to explore with no entrance fee and there is no obligation to hire a guide. With much fewer crowds than Petra, Little Petra is around half a kilometre long and will take around an hour to explore the site.
The great thing about Little Petra is how close everything on the site is, as you can easily spend a morning or afternoon exploring the area and is well worth a visit whilst in Jordan. There are dining rooms, paintings and tombs which were until recently inhabited by the local Bedouins.
Little Petra is part of the wider UNESCO World Heritage Site and when it was set up, the Bdul Bedouins were relocated to a newly built village Umm Sayhoun to protect the site. Opening times are from 6 am to 6 pm in the summer months and 6 am until 4:30 pm in the winter.
There is a Nabataean water basin opposite the car park which is a great example of how the Nabataeans used natural cracks in the rock with the addition of carving channels to direct rainwater into water reservoirs.
The Nabataeans were an ancient Arab people who knew how to harness nature for their benefit. They chiselled the sandstone at a 45 degree angle and then covered the reservoir with cement to make it non-permeable, preventing any water from escaping.
The facades of the many rooms in Little Petra have taken inspiration from several styles of architecture at the time including Greek, Roman, Egyptian, Hellenistic and Assyrian influences. Around halfway into the Siq Al-Barid, take the carved steps up to the painted house which showcases some of the oldest artwork by Nebataeans and was restored in 2010 to reveal beautiful colours and spectacular detail.
Whilst exploring the many beautiful temples and caves in Little Petra, don’t miss out on the viewpoint at the end of the canyon. Several steep steps lead you to a wonderful place that looks out over the Albaydah forest, a great place to stop for a coffee or tea. When we visited there was no one at the café (tourism has sadly suffered since the Israel-Gaza war) but have heard that the owner is very friendly and welcoming.
Ammarin Bedouin Camp
That afternoon we relaxed at Ammarin Bedouin camp as the heat was intense and there was a lovely chill space set up between the rocks with fly nets. Our guide Mutaz cooked a delicious broad bean tomato lunch, a tuna salad with fresh local bread which was so delicious!
The funniest part about staying in the camp was the Little Petra cats, who we were warned that they don’t take no for an answer. These tough, hardy desert cats could smell our lunch (most likely the irresistible tuna) and were determined to join, so we took turns trying to warn them off until we were full and had some to share with them.
Wine tasting in Little Petra
In the evening, we chased the sunset for a view over the mountains surrounding Little Petra to admire the beautiful landscapes in the region, the warm terracotta rocks intensified in the golden sun. As the sun disappeared, we headed to the Little Petra Heritage Village for wine tasting which took us by surprise!
Jordan River Wines recently opened a wine-tasting experience in the Little Petra Heritage Village, named The Experience. We enjoyed learning all about the process of how the grapes are grown in basalt rock in the Mafraq Plateau. The water reserve comes from over 400 metres in depth, from Syria in Jaba Al-Arab.
Before arriving in Jordan, we had no idea that Jordan produces its wine and you can arrange to visit Jordan River Wines vineyards in Mafraq. As a predominantly Muslim country, Jordan has strict rules around alcohol consumption and can be difficult to find in shops.
It’s believed that Caucasians produced the first-ever wines and these grape varieties were grown in Petra over 2,000 years ago and eventually, the Europeans took these varieties back home. Many historical sources suggest that wine was common in Arabia before Islam and used to be an important part of life and culture.
Jordan River also makes Beer under the name Carakale beers, some are made with salt from the Dead Sea which gives it a distinct salty flavour. We’d highly recommend wine tasting at Jordan River Wines in Little Petra, having the chance to try their award-winning wines was a lovely experience and their wine is excellent.
To contact Jordan River Wines:
email: tours@jr.jo
phone: 00962799344676
website: https://jr.jo/
We returned to Ammarin Bedouin guesthouse in Little Petra which is a Bedouin-run camp and is the only camp located within the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is located right next to Little Petra which makes it very convenient as a base to explore the area. The rooms are made of single beds with electricity and are basic but come with all the essentials you will need.
There is a shared, communal bathrooms with showers and toilets. There is also a lovely outdoor seating area in between the rock face which is protected from flies and is a great place to escape from the afternoon sun. Opposite the camp, there is a 1000 year old pistachio tree.
STAY | Ammarin Bedouin guesthouse
Day 9 - Petra back Door trail hike and Wadi Rum
SIGHTS | Little Petra, Petra back door hike, Petra, Wadi Rum desert
Petra back door trail
From Little Petra, there is an 8 km trail that leads you to the Monastery in Petra. This route is an ideal route to avoid crowds, as Petra is one of the most popular sites in Jordan. Hiking along the Petra back trail allows you to enjoy the surrounding landscapes at your own pace.
This is part of the hiking route from Dana to Petra, a beautiful 84 km trail that takes 4 days to complete, a segment of the challenging Jordan Trail. In our opinion, hiking the Petra back door trail is one of the best ways to see Petra as you avoid climbing the 900 steps up to the Monastery and only have to defeat them one way.
At the entrance of Little Petra, there is a ticket office to purchase tickets for Petra, without the need to go to the Petra visitor centre in Wadi Musa. There is no obligation to hire a guide, you can do the hike without a guide and explore Petra by yourself. A large 4x4 truck will take you approximately 4.7 km along the trail and requires purchasing an additional ticket to your Petra tickets.
The 4x4 transport ticket is only valid for one journey, if you plan to return to Little Petra you can also purchase an additional return ticket from where you are dropped off as this is not included in the ticket price. However, if you are parked in Little Petra, there is a free shuttle service from Petra to Little Petra just ensure to check the timetable.
The Little Petra Hike is also known as The Back Door or Back Trail and follows the ancient Nabataean route to Petra, passing through Wadi Siq al-Ghurab and following the sandstone mountains onto an impressive plateau with views across the sandy plains of Wadi Araba.
When we arrived at the beginning of the trail with the 4x4, Bedouins were waiting for us with mules offering rides up to the Monastery. Unfortunately, these mules are not well cared for and we saw many along the way tied up with no shade and no water.
Please do not support riding animals in Petra, animal welfare and ethical practices are not evident. If unsure how to respond when offered, politely decline to ride mules, donkeys or camels in Petra. Those we spoke to respected our decision and wished us a nice day. If you do not have the appropriate fitness to hike this trail you should not be relying on mistreated mules or supporting wildlife tourism in this way.
Whilst some guides may reassure you that their animal is well kept and looked after, this may be the case however, the majority of animals in Petra are overworked in harsh conditions and malnourished. If you are afraid of heights, the route is slightly exposed in sections and the trail has been recently improved for safety.
The hike took us around an hour to walk 2.3 km at a slow pace with photo stops along the way to the Monastery, many others were walking much faster and probably took around 45 minutes.
The Monastery
It was a magnificent sight once we arrived at the Monastery, we admired this incredible work of art from the Bedouin café with a rewarding fresh orange juice. If hiking from Little Petra to the Monastery without the 4x4 ride it will take around 2 hours, make sure to bring plenty of water with you.
We then started our descent down the 900-odd steps from the Monastery, passing many shops and small cafés along the way, giving encouragement to those facing the steep, long ascent. One thing we didn’t realise about Petra is the massive scale of the site, it covers a huge area of over 264 km2 and is impossible to see everything in one day.
If you have limited time to explore Petra, choose a few attractions on the map and follow the main path. Petra is included in the Jordan Pass and there is the option to add on more days, with limited time and only exploring the afternoon in Petra we saw the main sights but would love to return and see more!
The Treasury
We passed many honeycomb caves, temples, Greco-Roman ruins, tombs, water engineering systems, theatres and so much more. Less than half of Petra has been excavated, leaving many covered treasures.
About halfway from the Monastery, a few restaurants and toilets are found close to Qasr Al-Bint which makes it the ideal lunch stop. From there we made our way to the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), where if you look closely at the giant urn above the entrance has many gunshot marks. The Bedouins believed as did Indiana Jones that there was treasure inside the urn.
Petra was discovered by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, where he befriended a local Bedouin encampment and gained the trust of the Bedouins after asking to sacrifice a goat at the tomb of Aaron. He assumed this route would lead them to traverse through the valley of Petra which is when he first saw the Treasury.
He wrote 12 pages in his travel journey detailing his observations and the precautions he had to take in disguise and avoid any suspicion of being discovered by the Bedouins a treasure seeker.
Al Siq
Al Siq is a slot canyon which leads directly to the Treasury. We were walking in the opposite direction, to which Burckhardt would’ve seen the Treasury for the first time, so we turned around to admire how perfectly the Siq frames the Treasury, slowly revealing the masterpiece of architecture and craftsmanship.
It took us around 2.5 hours to hike from the 4x4 truck drop-off point on the Little Petra back trail to the entrance of Petra. Many of the viewpoints you may have seen online of the treasury from above are now closed due to safety concerns. There is the option to explore Petra by night which is on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday each week.
Wadi Rum
Our final stop on this epic 10 day adventure in Jordan was Wadi Rum, a 1.5 hour drive south of Petra and Wadi Musa. Before entering Wadi Rum, go to the visitor centre to buy an entrance ticket, note there is an extra fee for 4WD vehicles.
Wadi Rum is one of the most beautiful landscapes in Jordan, a remote desert world famous for providing stunning backdrops for Hollywood hits including Martian, Star Wars and most recently Dune. We arrived at Al Sultana, a luxury desert camp in Wadi Rum where we’d spend our last night in Jordan.
From the hotel we took a sunset tour around Wadi Rum, stopping at the Anfaishiyya Inscriptions depicting hunters, camels and other animals. Along the sunset tour, we explored the valley where The Martian was filmed and since production, it’s had such a huge influence on the style of accommodation in Wadi Rum with predominantly dome tents at most hotels in the desert.
Our last stop on our desert tour was to a dune to watch the sunset. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets of the whole of our trip to Jordan. It felt like we were experiencing our own movie, looking out across the desert where the horizon seemed endless.
After an epic adventure in the desert, we returned to Al Sultana in time for dinner to see the traditional Bedouin dish Zarb lifted out of the ground. Zarb is cooked underground on fire embers for 3 hours and is uncovered until it is lifted out and served. The flavour and tenderness of the potatoes, lamb and chicken were delicious and one of the best meals we had in Jordan!
STAY | Al Sultana, Wadi Rum
Day 10 - Wadi Rum and Amman
SIGHTS | Wadi RUM Desert
In the morning we woke up in our Martian tent to a wonderful sunrise over the desert rocks in Wadi Rum. We enjoyed a tasty breakfast which was buffet style with the option of fresh omelettes and juice to fuel us for our journey back to Amman.
There are several different rooms in Al Sultana, these include single, triple and family-sized rooms that look like a traditional Bedouin tent from the outside but have all the modern luxurious inside. Each room has ensuite bathrooms, aircon, mini bar and comfortable beds.
We stayed in the superior dome-style rooms which featured a large window, wrap around balcony, wardrobe and large bathroom and the room was huge with a very comfy bed. Watch our room tour on YouTube which is linked below.
Al Sultana Luxury Camp is one of the few hotels with a swimming pool in the middle of the desert, allowing you to stay cool whilst admiring your surroundings. We spent the morning relaxing by the pool, reminiscing on the incredible adventure we had spent the last 10 days in Jordan.
The drive back to Amman from Wadi Rum takes around 4 hours, and once back in Amman, we spent our last few hours exploring the main street in The Boulevard before packing our bags for our flight.
This 10-day itinerary in Jordan was a trip of a lifetime, we made good friends and memories along the way and hope to inspire you to plan your adventure to Jordan.
